July 15th – The Two Faces of the PCT
After hiking for a couple of hours we find ourselves on a long, protracted climb and cross over a nicely flowing creek, in the middle of what the guidebook describes as a waterless section. Since we didn’t know about this water source we are already carrying 3 liters each and don’t need to stop. At a second crossing of the “unknown oasis” creek our illusion of solitude is shattered by a group of about 20 teenage girls out on a day hike. We hear them for a half mile before, and after, we see them. We put off breakfast until we are closer to the top of the ridge and can put some distance between us and this noisy distraction. It will be another day of walking along wooded ridges.
From the continious rolling terrain along the crest, the mountains in this part of the Sierra seem very benign. The trail follows a rolling, gentle crestline. The occasional views look off at more waves of green hills with only an occasional peak rising above the general plane. The scene is tranquil and lulls us into a sense that hiking in this area is a gentle experience. It LOOKS like a place where one dad might bring his daughter and 19 of her friends for a morning stroll. But this is only one face of the forest.
Just as yesterday’s descent into the south fork of the Feather River revealed a rugged canyon, so too did today’s descent into Beldon. And these ridges surely must hide more such rugged canyons. These are harsh hillsides. A cross-country ramble could quickly turn into a a walk with grim consequences. Steep and rocky, overgrown with brush and with hidden gullies so numerous all come together to create a navigational nightmare. From the canyon bottoms the surrounding hillsides seem impossibly rugged, barriers to overland travel.
Occasional views north mark our progress as Mt Lassen, still distant, is now more distinct and seems to be getting closer. We push the final descent in order to finish 23 miles by 5pm and get in at a reasonable hour, in time to find “Little Haven”, a hostel offered complimentary to hikers by Laurie and Brenda Braatten. And in time for dinner before the nearby Caribou Crossing cafe/store closes at 7pm. The food at the cafe is good, but the store is very limited. However we manage to find enough items to be able to get us through the 2 days it will take to get the 46 miles to the next town, Chester.
Back at the hostel there are seven other hikers. We walked the whole day without seeing any of them, being either a couple hours ahead or a couple hours behind, in our own little bubble. Town stops are always where we see the most thru hikers and have a chance to get caught up on “who is where” as well as other trail gossip.
