June 10th
Last night was another cold one in our camp at a small basin at 11,30000 feet. Its hard to imagine that just a few days ago we were in the desert coming into Kennedy Meadows and it was hovering around 100 degrees. All we wished for was some relief from the heat, some nice cold temps. Well, be careful what you wish for………
Last night I awoke at 3am and there was a layer of frost inside the tent, on the ceiling – frozen condensation. The water bottles, which were inside the tent, were frozen almost half solid.
We were warm and toasty inside the sleeping bag. We’re using “the Aspen,” a semi rectangular down filled bag from Western Mountaineering along with a linen “coupler” which zips to the bottom of the bag so that it can be opened like a quilt. There is a savings in weight and bulk by doing this rather than using two bags zipped together. It’s rated to 20F, but with two bodies it will stay very warm even when it’s colder.
Today’s walk takes us deeper into the heart of the high country. We start with a rolling path through foxtail pines and views of peaks of nearby mountains rising above 14,000 feet, filled with rocky crags, creeks overflowing with snowmelt, large patches of permanent snow fields. From across the flat meadows of the Siberian Outpost we watch the Great Western Divide loom ever larger over us as we draw up close to its eastern edge. This is the full spectrum of the Sierra’s scenery; we are in the mountains now.
Despite its cold beginnings, the day holds a promise of warmth to come. In a meadow, a weasel basks on a warm rock, oblivious or uncaring about our passing. On our lunch break the sun feels too warm to sit in, but retreating to the shade means putting on a layer of fleece.
We lunch where the PCT crosses Rock Creek, a special place for me. In 1994, it was here that I caught up to Jeff Budd and finally had another through hiker to walk with. The PCT was filled with much more solitude then.
The Carrot and I still find ourselves in a “bubble”, between waves of other hikers. We know that there are many more hikers just a day or less ahead or behind us, but today the only other hiker we see actually on the trail is “Pi,” and he stops to have lunch with us.
On the edge of Crabtree Meadow, just on the forests fringe, a mule deer browses for food. We pass by, as we leave the PCT, to follow Whitney Creek along a side trail to the “upper” area of Crabtree Meadows, our camp for the night and the best “jumping off” point for a much anticipated side trip to the top of Mt Whitney tomorrow.
In camp we find Alex, Radar, Adam, Supertramp, and Halftrack. All are radiant and relaxing after having climbed Whitney themselves earlier today. We ply them with questions about timing, route, gear and what it was like. We are also glad to see some familiar faces and be reunited with friends, even if it is for just one night. Tomorrow they will move on as we climb the mountain and return to being one day behind them. Trail appetites, especially the Carrot’s are kicking in, as every conversation comes back around to food.
