August 12th
We were up and out by 7:30, not as early as we would have liked, but earlier, normally, than many of the hikers camped around us. However, today they are almost all on the trail before us. Only Strut was still in camp.
After walking back up the same ridge we had ascended the night before, we traverse a ridge along devils peak with views back to McLaughlin and ahead to Thielsen. He scenery is becoming noticeably more dramatic as the crest transforms from a relatively flat plain to a more serrated ridge and the trail follows. Lingering snowfields are found in the shadows of these steeper and higher ridges. They feed trickling seeps of water wich nurture numerous wildflowers.
At the first real running water, a stream in about 5 miles, we caught up to others as they were finishing breakfast. We stayed to eat ours. A pileated woodpecker flew overhead greeting us with his distinctive laugh. Perhaps he was amused at our predicament. This is the last water for 21 miles and we were trying to soak up all we could. The volcanic soil soaks up water quickly and the trail ahead stays on the dry crest line, avoiding any lakes in lower basins.
We left loaded down with water, staggering a little from the weight and as the morning got hotter we staggered some more. The heat is tough on the legs and today they again feel like they are full of lead. We stopped at a trail junction for lunch and visited with Sheppard and Strut, checked our water and decided that we did not have to make the 2-mile side trip down the other trail to search for water.
After lunch we surprised 2 Martins. In their confusion, one ran down to the trail and then used it as an escape route running directly in front of us for about 50 yards. The other crossed the trial between us.
High thin clouds helped keep the heat down and we made good time. Approaching the boundary of Crater Lake National Park, a couple of sections of trail went by so much faster than expected that the mileage in the guidebooks must be wrong, not that we were complaining. We were able to get to the Mazama campground with its luxuries of beer, ice cream and microwaved cheeseburgers that much more quickly. We shared a campsite with Little John, Sheppard, Tremor, Ruth, Trainwreck, Strut and Tigger.
